
The Trip
Spent a little over three weeks in Portugal from late October to mid-November. The majority of the time was walking from town to town along the southwestern coast of the country. The end was Lisbon and days and nights of city life. There may have been a few highlights, most of them involving music, food, and experiences on the trail, but truly the whole trip was constant all good—‘Tudo Bem’ every single day.

The Trail
O Trilho dos Pescadores, otherwise known as The Fishermen’s Trail, is around 140 miles long and goes from Praia de São Torpes in the Alentejo region to Lagos in the Algarve. Most of the path runs along the coast and connects various routes local fishermen still use to access their favorite fishing spots on cliffs high above the Atlantic, hence the name. The trail is one of several routes of the Rota Vicentina system which combines paths, backcountry roads, and historic ways to create a network of options for exploring Southwestern Portugal while hiking or cycling.




The trail has become a significant source of small-scale tourism over the past few years, and while it doesn’t feel crowded, it wasn’t uncommon to spot 30-50 hikers a day following the route. And this was in the ‘low season.’ Most folks hiking the trail walk from town to town, north to south, often having their luggage shuttled ahead of them. They eat and drink well at Portuguese restaurants each night, and stay in a variety of lodgings. Those planning to complete the entire trail generally do so in 11-13 days, while others choose shorter sections and only spend a few days on the route. The hiking isn’t incredibly difficult, with average distances of 12-13 miles a day and not a lot of elevation, though sand, sun, rain, and wind may make some days tougher than others. In short, it’s a mid-level, low-stress adventure highlighted by hearty meals, pastries and gelato, tiny cups of espresso, good (ridiculously cheap) local wine, surprisingly diverse vegetation, and incredible views all day every day.








For those interested in the trail there’s plenty of information out there so I won’t bother to go into detail. Krissy and I spent 18 days hanging out on the route, staying a couple of nights (rather than just one) at multiple towns along the way. The days we weren’t walking the trail we were also walking for miles, riding bikes, kayaking, watching it rain… The advice I would give anyone looking to go would be: 1) walk south to north; 2) plan extra days to hang out along the way. Will let the photos tell the rest of the story.










The Language
One of the things I enjoy most about traveling has become speaking a different language, though since the only different language I speak is Spanish, I’ve mainly traveled in Spanish speaking countries. Portugal seemed like a good opportunity to get out of that comfort zone in a comfortable way—that is not being competent, but also not being completely lost either. A challenge without much consequence.





If you speak Spanish, chances are you will be able to read basic Portuguese materials and comprehend the essentials. What you will most likely not be able to do, however, is understand anything anyone is saying or be able to speak even the simplest sentences—especially in European Portuguese, which is notably different, especially in terms of pronunciation, than Brazilian Portuguese. Lots of nasal and guttural sounds which don’t exist in English or Spanish. So, while I didn’t do a lot of research about the route or places to go or things to do, I did my best to spend some time each day for the two months between choosing Portugal and going to Portugal to study some Portuguese. As a result, I ended up learning a little bit about the culture and country in the process.

It was all a lot of fun and those details truly enhanced the entire experience. While many people there do speak some English, almost all of the people I tried to speak to in Portuguese were more than happy to go along with it, and the effort really made the trip both easier and more enjoyable. While the conversations never progressed to in-depth discussions, I did manage to text with lots of Airbnb owners, find rooms and food and live music, successfully get a taxi with a phone call, and even make a few people laugh with my jokes!


The Food
Portuguese people are often affectionately noted for being overly proud of their cuisine. It’s not that their favorite dishes are not respectable, more like it’s a little difficult to place them on the same level as the haute fare one might think of when imagining France, Italy, Spain, etc. The food is good, very good, but good like upscale Midwest delicious perhaps? Maybe picture a healthier Cracker Barrel with lots of fish on the menu? The funny thing is that all of the towns from biggest to smallest have an open market certain days of the week where vendors sell fresh meat, fish, and loads of beautiful local produce—but somehow that produce does not make it into any of the restaurants. Ask for a salad and you’re getting the same Iceberg with one tomato slice as you would in a Kansas steakhouse.


We did our best to sample all of the traditional food available. It was tasty, nutritious, and filling. Dinner was generally seafood and fish, often served in a soup, sometimes in a big pot for two, and also grilled, baked, fried, made into casseroles, and so forth. Breakfast in Portuguese means ‘a small lunch,’ which was included with a hotel stay and looked about like it sounds, coffee, tea, sandwich buffet with croissants… Our real lunch we always ate while hiking—and was often my favorite part of the day. Find a place off the trail on a cliff edge overlooking the ocean and tuck into a thick heavy loaf of freshly baked bread (1€!), some fruit, a bit of sheep cheese, maybe a nap after… The best!



One cannot write about eating in Portugal without mentioning the crème de la custard: Pastel de Nata. There isn’t a Portuguese YouTuber that doesn’t have an episode on Portugal’s famous custard tart. It’s so hyped, in fact, I assumed there was no way that little Christmas (the Nata of the name) pastry could live up to the propaganda. Turns out, however, it most definitely does!

We tried a lot of different desserts. A lot. But nothing matches the sheer pleasure that is eating a fresh pastel de nata topped with cinnamon. So, we sampled a lot of those too. A whole lot! We even made it to the bakery in Belém where the pastry (in a slightly different variation) is said to have been created, its original recipe still a guarded secret after 200 years. So worth it.



The City
Lisbon is Lisboa and a whole lot of fun. We spent several days there at the end of the trip and gave in to straight tourist mode, as that seemed like the only thing to do really. We did a whole lot of walking, which is the best part about Lisbon, especially getting lost in the narrow historic streets of the Alfama district, where we stayed. We also rode atop a few tour buses, hopped one funicular, spent an hour on a streetcar, took a boat ride on the Tagus River, went on a guided walking tour, visited the central castle, admired the views from countless overlooks, and then walked some more.




Lisbon is a very touristy and crowded place, I must say, but we saw a whole lot of it those few days and enjoyed every minute of it. One of the things I was most excited for was hearing live and heartfelt Fado music, something that proved sadly elusive the first few days. But it all came together the last night we were in Portugal with a front row candlelit table a few feet from the animated performers, coupled with tasty traditional dishes to eat and copious amounts of ‘vinho tinto’ till closing. A most satisfying finale to the end of three remarkable weeks.






The Company
Krissy is the one person I’ve met in the past several years that is both interested in and equipped for the types of trips I like to do, often with short notice and no real plans. We went on several off-trail adventures this past winter and this summer started doing some backpacking, camping, and traveling together. Krissy is easy going, adventurous, and above all appreciative of new experiences. She is also super fit and almost always smiling. I love that she never has an agenda, instead trusting that no matter what ends up happening it’s going to be fun. In short, the perfect travel companion. As a bonus, she’s also a great model for all the photos, and credit for the too many pictures of me in this and the last post goes to her. Here’s to beaches, bakeries, balconies, out-of-the-way places, spontaneous shortcuts, unintentional explorations, and all the sunsets.























































































































































































































































































































































































